Plunge router:

➡️Plunge router is named after it's sponging abilities ,due to its plate that slides on a rail which puts the bit into the piece of wood .

The Plunge router , differs from a fixed-base tool primarily with the integration of the motor with the rest of the tool and the incorporation of a pair of tubes that provide the mechanism for controlling the up-and-down motion.

➡️ The whole assembly is designed to function as a single unit and doesn't come apart for bit changes or anything else.

All Plunge router are comprised of a base casting, and the two polished tubes for the motor to move up and down.

➡️A stop turret is a common feature and used to regulate the depth changes. An up-stop is often used to set the motor head at the same starting point. Also standard on most Plunge router are motor locks, handles, switches, edge-guide accessories, depth gauges, and split self-releasing collets. Some other useful features sometimes found are: a soft start so the machine doesn't jump 

when you flip the switch; variable speed; two-step safety switches; vacuum funnels for chip collection; spindle locks; protective bellows for the plunge tubes; two-stage microadjusters for precise depth control; and electric braking.

➡️Plunge router are designed to be used in your hands with the aid of gravity; they aren't really meant for the router table where many of them are found today.

⏹️ Basic anatomy of plunge router:

Plunge router machines are designed for function, not looks. And although they have common features, the manufacturers use a variety of ways to the put the components together.

➡️MOTOR HEAD of plunge router :

The motor head is a combination of aluminum and reinforced engineering plastic. The head is the heaviest component of the router and is the reason for its tipsiness. The handles, switches, depthmechanisms,  motor lock, speed controls, and motor are all part of the head assembly. The ergonomics of these features and functions differ somewhat from router to router.

➡️PLUNGE TUBES of plunge router :

All motor heads are fastened to, locked on, and pogo(move up and down) on a pair of plunge tubes. They are hardened, usually polished, and sometimes covered with protective bellows. If a wrench slips off the collet nut, it will ding a tube and spoil the smooth travel of the motor head. The 

idiosyncrasies of the tubes are not reason enough to accept or reject a router, but their interplay with the motor head and column bearings is,you should carefully check for a smooth action when considering a purchase. 

The springs that pogo the router on the posts should be such that they pick the motor head up to its stop in a measured and nearly buoyant fashion. An oversprung motor head-that is, one with too much spring-will prevent a smooth plunge action.

➡️ Base castings of plunge router:

The base castings of Plunge router are all different sizes and shapes. The reason for such diversity is control. The designers of these devices assumed that a straight section on a base casting could be used against a guide for more control and accuracy. In practice, the subbase/casting is the least accurate and most troublesome method of guiding a router.

 In fact, these truncated castings along with the elevated motor head are the reason 

Plunge router are so unwieldy. A round base casting is the best compromise. The Porter-Cable 7539 has the biggest; the DeWalt 621 has one of the worst, which I will address later. Larger, clear plastic "stability" subbases are available for some Plunge router .

The castings receive the plunge tubes; provide a means for collar guide, subbase, and edge-guide attachment; and support the turret stop. They are sometimes also used as funnels for the vacuum systems. The vacuum systems do work, but the hose can get in the way. During production, the hose is sometimes supported from above the worker.

⏹️Helpful Features of plunge router:

The result of so many different Plunge router is much diversity and novelty. This section discusses the different features and their importance. 

➡️ELECTRIC BRAKE plunge router :

Two plunge routers include an electric brake: the Makita 361 2C and Porter-Cable 7529. This is a good option, because accidents do occur on deceleration. I have broken cutters and ruined jigs, fixtures, and the work itself on deceleration. I probably have done more damage with the switch off and the cutter slowing down than most people have done under power. In my view, all routers should have an electric brake.

➡️PROTECTIVE PLUNGE-TUBE BELLOWS :

Bellows seem like a good idea; they protect the posts from impact damage and preserve lubricant. The Freud FT2000E and Bosch 1613 use them. Other routers, notably the DeWalt 62 1 and 625, work endlessly without them.

➡️CHIP COLLECTION CAPABILITY :

Integrated vacuum collection systems are a good idea. The DeWalt 62 1 and 625 and the Porter-Cable 7529 (and other Porter-Cable routers) are "vacuum ready." Aftermarket vacuum accessories are becoming common. Chip and dust collection are not only important for our health, but the quality of work can improve, too. A recut chip wears on the cutter and "fouls the footway" in tight quarters, especially with template mortising. 

Collars and bearings transmit edge and template defects into the work. If a bearing rolls over a chip, it can cause a bump on the work. The vacuum hose is troublesome but better than a chattered profile. Some work, especially with plastics, will require exhaust right at the cutter.

➡️REMOVABLE HANDLES 

For hand control, grips are essential. For router table use, they are unnecessary. The DeWalt 625 and Freud FT2000, for example, have removable handles for easier installation. The Hitachi plunge routers all have handles that pivot. 

➡️220 VOLTS :

The only Plunge router with no volts is the Bosch 1615 and it is soon to be phased out. The 2-hp Bosch 1617 (fixed-base) has a nO-volt option. Routers with 1 10 volts are capable of heavy work, but they are not production tools. Sometimes they are used in production work, but the equivalent operation is usually done on the shaper if hours or shifts of the same operation are called for. Short, very heavy-duty cuttings are likely to burn out a standard router; the nO-volt tool will run cooler longer, which is its essential benefit. 

Even if shaper power and durability were available in a router, the present-day 'h-in. shank tools couldn't stand the stress. The power to take a deeper cut at a higher feed rate is nice, but the limiting factor is the cutters, which are likely to break. 

➡️SPINDLE LOCK :

Spindle locks are found on most plunge routers. In my view, the two -wrench systems are easier and less likely to cause accidental harm to the router and to the "squeezer." I suspect their presence on Plunge routers is more for marketing purposes than practicality. 

➡️COLLETS :

All routers have collets. A cutter seizing in the collet used to be an ordinary experience. But today essentially all routers use multisplit self-releasing designs. They all let go of their cutters handily on demand and hold the cutter tight. Not much can be said about collets except keep them clean (inside and out) and throw them away every 300 hours to 500 hours or so, or immediately if a cutter slips in one. 

⏹️How to operate a plunge router:

➡️The first thing on this one is ,the on / off switch .The switch is located in the right side beside the right handle .When it is pushed down it turns off and when you flip it up it turns on . 

➡️If you turn it on it will cut the wood and if you push it down it will turn off .

➡️Speed adjustment on this router is located near  the top .

➡️Different speeds go accordingly to different bits.

There are two handles on this router to where you can turn it, hold it.

➡️ The depth adjustment is located on the back of the router near  the left handle. Push it down and then lock it in a place at the desired depth.

➡️ The next part is putting a bit in your router. The first step is to make sure you have your wrench to adjust the collet. To place a bit into the collet on the router, slide the shank of  the bit into the collet ,push it all the way in first and then back it off about a quarter of an inch. 

➡️Next thing is, you should tight it by your hand until the shaft on the router begins to turn .Once this happens push the button located near the  collet, that locks the armature of the motor. Once you've got it hand tightened use your wrench and tighten it the rest of the way. You want to make sure that it's really tight to where it doesn't slip while you're routing. Next you need to adjust your depth of cut to make sure that you're cutting in the proper position on your board.

➡️ You can do this by pushing down your router and with your depth adjustment lever. Once you get it in place ,lock your lever .

The first step of actually making your cut on your board with your router ,is making sure, that you have a smooth surfaces ,that you'll be routing against.

➡️ Now take the board and lock it into the bench. Once it's in place check your  depth of cut again, if everything is good, go ahead plug up your router. Then make sure you wear safety glasses when using a router . A lot of chips and stuff fly around you, don't want them getting in your eyes . When using the router due to the rotation of the pit you should start from the  right side then move to the left on your of piece of wood .Adjust your speed to the proper speed adjustment and then go ahead turn on the router and make your pass. Once you've done this you should have a nicely routed board.

⏹️ Plunge router uses:

 ➡️MORTISING :

Mortising with a fixed base is rarely practical or safe. A plunge stab with a fixed base and cutter extended may cause the router to self-feed or break the cutter. A Plunge router is the best tool for mortises. For speed and accuracy, a jig should be used with an edge guide on both sides of the work 

and jig . Mortise depths to about 2lk in. are the practical limits, although given two plunge routers with the same setup, 3 in. or more are possible without having to change any cutters.

➡️CIRCLES AND ELLIPSES :

Cutting a circle is generally a multistage task, so a Plunge router works well because it can be lowered gradually to cut through the stock. A tem￾plate is often the first stage of the process and the template then is used on the work with trim cutters. A template can be cut out of an MDF or plywood blank. A disk or oval will break out of the blank on the final pass.

 It should be screwed down onto another substrate to prevent it from vibrating against the cutter. Fastening a plunge router to a circle or ellipse j ig is the most accurate and least costly of methods when making these shapes. 

A bandsaw can be used more efficiently, but not to the precision or finish quality of a router and straight bit.

➡️HALF LAPS, SLOTS, AND TENONS:

Slotting, lapping, and tenoning are user-specific operations. There are no textbook standards for these chores. For me, all three are multistage

Cutters are just too short, often too fragile, and the work too demanding or dangerous for a fixed-base tool in one pass. I've made jigs to accommodate 

and support the plunge router in each case.

➡️CUTTER-BREAKING TROUBLES :

The most important time to use a plunge router is when the cut is deep or large enough to risk breaking the cutter. If the depth of cut is such that a single pass of the tool will break the cutter, or burn it out, then a plunge router is called for. Even edge work can fall into this c

Plunge router, Image by-Mark Hunter,Source-Flickr,License-CC BY 2.0

ategory. Any time 

the cut will require two passes, it's best to rig the operation to use a plunge router, even if that means building up support on the outboard side of the base to prevent tipping. Edge work here also refers to the edge of templates. 

Dovetail bits are single-depth cutters by design; they can't be used at two depths on the same center. The dovetail bit is one of the most fragile and easiest to break. 

If its pathway is partly cleared by a preplow from a straight bit, the dovetail cutter has an easier time and is less likely to chatter. A plunge router can pare away the pathway in two or three steps with a straight bit and do it quickly. I would use the Plunge router in this "utility" function without hesitation, its instability notwith standing. Moreover, any cutting error from the straight bit will be completely erased by the dovetail bit. For the best dovetail cuttings try to preplow with the next smaller dovetail bit rather than a straight bit.

➡️ROUTER TABLE USE:

Plunge routers are probably the most popular choice for router tables, especially for heavy use. This is mainly because there are more choices in the 3-hp range than with fixed-base routers. They're also relatively inexpensive-as 3-hp routers go. But the choice does present several problems. Since the plunge router motor head is inseparable from the rest of the router, you can't change the bit easily if the tool is bolted right to the tabletop.

 Consequently, most folks compromise by attaching the plunge router to a big piece of plastic or metal that's inset into the tabletop. The whole assembly is removed for bit changes. In my view, this compromises the routing process as well as the table top integrity and flatness. Inevitably, the top will cup up slightly and so will the plastic insert. Expect interruptions as the work bumps into the transitions where the plastic meets the top.

Moreover, expect the plastic to 

deflect as you press the work down and against the cutter. Close work will be frustrated when a table has the insert construction. It's not so much the plunge router being in the table; it will work, but it is the insert and its installation that are problematic. I prefer a fixed-base router bolted directly to the underside of the router table top.

➡️The plunge router's essential advantage is its ability to start up with the cutter retracted and stab into the workpiece in a controlled fashion. 

Thereafter, it can remove the remaining stock in equal passes, changing depth, and cleaning up its mess (in many cases), all while its motor is running.

⏹️⏹️The Porter-Cable 7529-plunge router :

For openers, the Porter-Cable has a hefty plunge stroke ( 29/16 in. total) and a large, stable base casting with a round subbase. The Porter-Cable has an up-stop that does double duty as a full range microadjuster in both directions of travel.

The 7529 also has a spindle lock, but the company's standard pair of wrenches can also be used. This double-insulated, 2-hp, variable-speed, soft-start tool also has an electronic brake, an important safety feature. It has a relatively quiet and well-balanced motor, with a 10-ft. power cord. 

The armored ergonomic grips are close to the controls. One control, the depth stop, can be adjusted with the left hand while holding the grip￾all the while maintaining control of the router, a Porter-Cable exclusive.

Porter-Cable has also designed the base casting as a vacuum funnel with a connection for a I -in. vacuum hose. Collectors are also available 

for edge trimmings, which are harder to pick up. 

The variable-speed selector is safely out of the way, but is difficult to rotate. The tool has two switches with thermal overload protection, but I have trouble with the trigger switch coordinating the two steps to lock it on. The plunge glide is acceptable, but the head will jam if downward pressure is only applied to one knob. 

The tool is heavy at 11 lbs. and much wider than it is thick, making it unstable-but less so than most. Another plus is that Porter-Cable has designed this tool for router table or hand use with a mechanism that provides for continuous adjustment either upside down or right side up. 

In

Porter-Cable also has two other plunge routers. The 693 1 plunge router is essentially the 69 1 fixed-base router with a plunge base. The 7538 and 7539 are plunge versions of the Speedmatic 3 1/4-hp fixed-base routers.

⏹️⏹️DeWalt 625 -plunge router:

The industry standard in the heavyweight class is DW-625, formerly the Elu 3338. Like all routers, it is not perfect but deserves its position as the best big plunge router. Its controls are well situated and function smartly. The plunge glide, as on the DW-62 1, is as good as it gets. The maximum 

plunge depth is 27/16 in. Its features are otherwise unremarkable except for its conspicuous up-stop. It limits the up-travel and functions as the fine adjustment knob. 

The 625 is a double-insulated, 3-hp, variable-speed, soft-start, 13 .3-lbs. 

tool. It has a spindle lock for one-wrench cutter changes, a two-stage depth adjuster, and a trigger switch with a lock. It's a good tool. It suffers from the usual plunge router instability problems because the base is so small, but an offset subbase will keep the tool flat on the work. 

Also, its base casting is truncated and the cutter opening is so wide that it can snag on the corners of the work. Another minor problem is that the 

action of the up-stop quick release button is stubborn.